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Features

Mystery Diner: Nosh dishes up delicious fare in Geneva

GENEVA – After a decade in its original location as a Geneva destination for breakfast and lunch, Nosh last year moved into expanded new digs nearby at 22 N. Third St., a half block north of Route 38.

We wandered in late one Friday morning to satisfy my craving for an omelet and my dining companion’s taste for soup and a sandwich on a chilly day.

Open and airy, Nosh has a spacious, contemporary aesthetic in its two dining areas, one a large, glassed-in sun room. We opted for the interior dining room, which includes several banquettes and two large community tables. Each seating six, they handily are wired for electronics in case people plan to work collaboratively.

My companion was set to order the butternut squash soup, one of several specials including hearty Tuscan and black bean, until he spied the lobster bisque. A generous bowl of goodness arrived – creamy and full of richly decadent flavor.

The specials board touted a mimosa of the day and a Southern Belle cocktail, but because we were headed back to the office, we had to forgo the temptation.

The full bar doubles as the conventional counter for diners typical of an old-school eatery, and the conversation was lively between staff and patrons. Two televisions were tuned to the news.

We enjoyed a quiet table, and noticed that acoustic ceiling tiles were incorporated to keep noise levels down. The restaurant’s tables don’t crowd one another, and diners lingered over conversation.

I didn’t completely give up on a mimosa, and decided to start with an orange juice that was fresh-squeezed and delicious.

Torn between inventive omelets, I settled on the mushroom. The mushroom medley with caramelized onions and herb cheese left me pleased with my choice. The melting cheese with its delicate piquancy melded with the mushrooms and tender onions, all delicately enfolded by well-prepared eggs. The dish was accompanied by roasted potatoes lightly seasoned with herbs, a nice change from standard hash browns.

There are ample gluten-free options across the offerings, as well as a gluten-free French toast.

Besides pancakes, crepes and waffles, the breakfast menu extends to a variety of eggs Benedict recipes including lox with smashed avocado and tomato. Breakfast bowls serve eggs atop potatoes, delivering such choices as leek with bacon and Swiss cheese.

A brunch burrito as well as chilaquillas are available, and the tables have bottles of hot sauce to dial up the heat. Numerous other items dot the menu and specials abound.

The lunch menu begins with burgers, all prepared with prime beef. For something completely different, one can try crispy polenta topped with sweet lemon ricotta and drizzled with an orange-infused honey.

Salads run a wide gamut of flavors – from one with shrimp and avocado to another prepared with farro, turkey, spinach, julienned apple, Spanish cheese, raspberries and a house vinaigrette.

Sandwiches feature the Cuban, with roasted pork and ham on a focaccia roll; a turkey club on sourdough; chicken salad on toasted multigrain; and Nosh’s version of a BLT, with applewood smoked bacon, green leaf lettuce, tomatoes and garlic aioli on brioche bread.

My dining companion picked the roast beef accompanied by herb cheese spread, horseradish sauce, red onion and arugula on a toasted foccacia roll. He substituted caramelized onions.

“It is a tasty, hearty sandwich,” he said. “The caramelized onions enhance the flavor profile.”

For a side, he opted for fruit, which combined ripe blueberries, strawberries, kiwi and grapes.

Our attentive server kept our coffee cups full, and we noticed cappuccino, espresso and latte also are available.

To catch the specials, visit Nosh’s Facebook page.

Nosh has spread its wings in the new location, befitting its dragonfly logo delicately traced on the building’s exterior and an interior wall.

We were pleased with our dining experience and discovered ample reasons for a return visit soon. And in the far-off springtime, we can try out the patio.

• The Mystery Diner is a newsroom employee at the Record Newspapers. The diner’s identity is not revealed to restaurant staff before or during the meal. The Mystery Diner visits a restaurant and then reports on the experience. The Mystery Diner is not intended to be a restaurant critic but does highlight the parts of a dining experience that he/she can recommend.

IF YOU GO

WHAT: Nosh

WHERE: 22 N. Third St., Geneva

HOURS: 7:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. daily

INFO: 630-845-1570, experiencenosh.com

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